By Ed Hains
November 11, 2025
How to Cook, Seasonal Ingredient, The Leiths Letter

Wild Mallard

I have always had something of a childish affinity for ducks. What’s not to love? The quack? The waddle? The determination to get that piece of bread (not actually good for them)! My fascination with ducks was stirred again more recently when I stumbled across some Mandarin ducks for the first time.

For those not familiar with these exotic, colourful oddities, have a google. Truly, a surreal animal to discover on a misty, grey November morning walking through a forest. I bring up my appreciation for these living creatures in full acknowledgement of the hypocrisy for the other thing I love about ducks – their taste!

The typical duck you buy in a supermarket or order in a restaurant will be of a farmed, domestic variety. They are selectively bred to provide chefs with a plump bird encased in a generous lining of fat. A classic way to enjoy duck is to cook the breast so it still retains some pink in the middle while the fatty skin is rendered and crisped up. At Leiths, we particularly like to use Cready Carver ducks to achieve these results.

But we also like ‘dabbling’ (pun intended), with cooking the more niche mallard. Mallard is the largest and most common of the nine wild duck varieties that can be hunted in the UK. The hunting season runs from the beginning of September to the end of January for those shot inland and extends to 20^th February for areas below the high-water mark.

You’re likely familiar with the distinctive emerald plumage of the male mallard, but have you ever cooked with it? A mallard will comfortably serve two whereas the smaller wild duck varieties such as teals and widgeons are the preserve for those with the patience to prepare a modest, albeit rarified, meal for one. Mallard has a stronger, gamey flavour compared to farmed duck. It’s also less fatty which means it will cook more quickly. Be warned though, it also dries out faster, so as with other game birds, it’s best to cook it on the bone. But cooked correctly, mallard has a wonderfully umami depth. This rich, gamey duck pairs very well with sharp, acidic fruits such as blackberries, plum and oranges. We also find it makes for the delicious base for hearty ramen as Mikey demonstrates in this month’s video.

Our recipe for Wild Mallard Ramen will be released in the next issue of the Leiths Letter. Don’t miss out on this umami-rich use of some seasonal British game by signing up here.