Wild Garlic

There are certain trusty veg that we take for granted as having available to us all year long. In the allium family, these are your onions, leeks, spring onions, garlics and chives. They generally have long seasons and last a long time after they’ve been picked. Even when you can’t get them from UK farms, you can be sure somewhere in the world will be growing and shipping them over. By virtue of their year-round abundance we pass these staples in the supermarket without a second thought. 

But there’s one allium that is profoundly seasonal and held in the highest regard by chefs for its ephemeral nature – wild garlic. This wide and pointy leafed perennial shoots up in March, carpeting shady woodlands and riverbanks in great green clusters. 

They are a pleasure to forage, not least because of how easy it is to identify them. Squeeze their soft leaves and they will release an unmistakable garlicy aroma, a smell synonymous with fresh spring.  The leaves are at their most tender in March and early April, where they can be eaten raw. The later season leaves need to be blanched a little to soften them, the way you would treat mature spinach. 

Once you’ve discovered a patch it is always tempting to fill as many bags as you can.  However, these dainty leaves pack a serious punch so a little goes along way.  Also, the picked leaves will not last long, three days covered in the fridge at best. My advice is to resist that temptation to pick a glut of wild garlic and allow enough to continue to grow for years to come.

Technically you can eat the little bulbs too. But they are not nearly as flavorful as the leaves and they are a real chore to peel for just the measly grain-sized piece of root you are left with. The flowers on the other hand are well worth picking. They come out in May, beautiful white spherical flowers that make for an excellent garnish, carrying the same unapologetic tingling hit of garlic as the leaves.

One of the many common names for wild garlic is ‘cow’s leek’- so called because cows have a penchant for these pungent little leaves. There are stories of Devonshire dairy farmers having their herd’s milk rejected because of the unfortunate garlicky taste produced after their cows grazed on wild garlic. Not good if you’re trying to produce butter fit for making a Victoria sponge.

But it does make me wonder if there’s some entrepreneurial farmer who might one day introduce a naturally produced ‘wild garlic butter’ range to the market. Is the world ready for this agricultural revolution? Perhaps not. Should I leave farming to the farmers and respect the fact that wild garlic does have some limits of use? Almost certainly!

That said, wild garlic pairs brilliantly alongside other springtime heroes like new season lamb, asparagus and Jersey Royals. It is superb made into pestos or finely chopped into a salsa verde where it brings a peppery, seasonal twist to a dish. To try and eke a little more out of the brief season you could make a bright green wild garlic oil or beat it into butter before freezing it. But above all remember what it is we ultimately love most about this spring herb – it isn’t around for long. Make the most of it!

Read the recipes

• Spring lamb & wild garlic is the ultimate April feast