British squashes

Is there anything more delightfully autumnal than squash?

As we start reaching for thick knit jumpers, the cold, dark evenings close in and the leaves begin falling, inevitably we begin craving comforting food too. The beginning of the winter squash season is the perfect tonic to these cravings; they are nutty, sweet and hearty.

Sown in the beginning of summer, these fruits are nurtured through the warm months. Then they are picked and left out in the sun for an additional week or two so that their skin hardens and flesh sweetens up, a process known as curing. 

Varieties of squash

They come in incredibly varied shapes and sizes, each with their own signature flavour and texture. On the smaller end of the scale there are Acorn squashes, which have a dark green skin but bright orange flesh inside. They taste especially sweet and nutty.  

Then there is the rather cute Sweet Dumpling squash which is even smaller. They are pale yellow with dark green striations running through them. Sweet Dumpling squashes have a starchy taste like corn. There’s also Spaghetti squash (with a large oblong form). It takes its name from how its flesh becomes stringy and spaghetti-like when cooked. Another firm favourite among chefs is the Crown Prince squash. These ones resemble typical pumpkins in shape and weight but have steely blue skin. They taste a bit like sweet potato and have a very dense texture.  

How to cook squashes 

My personal favourite however is the Onion squash (or Red Kuri squash), which are smaller and teardrop shaped with a deep reddish coloured skin. They have a sweetness balanced with a chestnut-like taste and their skin softens once roasted. This makes them ideal for making into purees or gnocchi, blitzed skin and all. They are a versatile, low prep squash and as a result I used to buy whole crates full for restaurants back when they cost £1/kg – those were the days! There are many more varieties besides these too and every year it’s always fun to sample a few lesser-known varieties from our suppliers.

Why not give it a go?  

Squashes, in all their forms, are well worth celebrating. Whether you do so by making a simple warming butternut soup, stuffing and roasting one with butter, garlic and gruyere or topping a galette with thinly sliced wedges. There are endless ways squashes can be used (savoury and sweet!), so why not get a little inventive!  

Our recipe for Squash Curry will be released in the next issue of the Leiths Letter. Don’t miss out on this seasonal favourite by signing up here.