Asparagus

British asparagus season is here – but not for long!

There was never really going to be a debate on May’s ingredient of the month.  It was always going to be the esteemed asparagus!  Picking another ingredient would only be contrarian for the sake of it.  There are of course plenty of other spring veg coming into harvest at this special time of year but there’s nothing that excites chefs quite like asparagus.  Nor is there another ingredient that guarantees to get buyers off to the markets to fill their boots (and empty their pockets!). 

Of course, like nearly everything else in this age of convenience you can technically get asparagus to your door all your round, courtesy of growers in Mexico, Peru or the US for example.  However, nothing beats asparagus picked straight from the field.  It’s far superior in taste and encapsulates the best of springtime.  The spears have a natural sweetness, perfectly balanced against grassy earthiness.  Asparagus grows best in sunny microclimates that have well drained soils.  Famous producers include Wye Valley in Herefordshire and Portwood farm based in Norfolk – both consistently great.  Growing asparagus is a serious endeavour.  They need plenty of space in the fields and take 3 years to mature.  However, the patient and committed grower will be richly rewarded because mature asparagus then starts shooting up from the ground, revealing proud spears in a matter of days while the plant itself will last up to 20 years! 

Asparagus can offer many avenues for a chef as they come to chalk up their springtime menu.  It can, for example, be eaten raw – shaved into ribbons to give a salad a fresh, slightly bittersweet crunch.  Asparagus can also be blanched to intensify its sweetness.  When timed to perfection, blanching the spears makes them both tender and yet al dente, something I never tire of eating at any time of the day!  Furthermore, asparagus can be sautéed, griddled or roasted giving it notes of beautiful nutty caramelization.  However, if you choose to proceed with this magnificent veg then do so at pace since the UK asparagus season only runs for six to eight weeks.  It is certainly a precious ingredient that can be incredibly delicious when cooked right.  Apt then that our diploma students have been kicking off the Advanced Term by preparing asparagus alongside fresh peas, broad beans and artichokes by making a lovely springtime gnocchi.

You can get the recipe, demonstrated by our teacher Jane in a video, in the next edition of the Leiths Letter. Sign up here.